I wouldn’t want to mess with these girls. Cold-ass bitches are what UNTTLD sent down the runway in Montreal’s Fashion Week this season with the overall aesthetic being one that was tough but in all the right ways. Pairing shear materials with boxy jackets, black lamé, feathers, fur and a print made up of cigarette butts, UNTLLD managed to combine these elements into strong dramatic pieces that reveal just the right amount. It was a collection that married a slouch cut with a structured one almost seamlessly, not something that’s an easy feat.
UNTTLD consists of Domus Academy’s Master in Fashion Design graduate Simon Bélanger, and his business partner José Manuel St-Jacques. Although a young company, UNTLLD has already made serious headway in a tough industry by winning a number of young designer competitions including being selected for a global showcase of creative talent in England last year. They’re also not afraid of collaboration, creating work within other disciplines and choosing to pair up with accessories powerhouse ALDO in 2012. This is the second year that UNTTLD have shown at Montreal Fashion Week with their collections gaining popularity with every season.
And, then there’s this video. I love fashions embracing nature towards the art of filmmaking these days. I’m not 100% sure if this was shown at the runway show of if this was purely produced for their website. Whatever the case, Im taken with it just as much as the clothing. Soul depicts a woman lost in the maze of her own mind as she wanders aimlessly through concrete corridors under swinging lights. A collaboration with Dominique Loubier, the film is not only shot and edited extremely well, but it complements UNTTLD’s collection perfectly. I highly recommend a watch if you like quintessential, dark French films.
Rumours are that UNTTLD will soon be releasing an online store, so keep them bookmarked for upcoming purchases.
Alessia Xoccato’s latest Fall/Winter collection titled Ordinary and Extraordinary 2013 is making waves across the fashion industry. Xoccato gives a fresh take on modernity within each piece while staying true to her signature style of sculptural garments that experiment with volume, geometric shape and simple lines.
Contrasting texture is a significant part of Xoccato’s aesthetic in this collection, as she pairs heavy materials such as wool with the lightness of silk. Her utilitarian colour palette works well with the modular shape of the garments. Xoccato has stated that an influence in her work is that of Romanian born sculptor Brancusi, which can be seen in the clean lines and block shapes throughout the collection. Emphasis is placed on the relationship between body and shape, with the designer saying that she wants to create a ‘conscious femininity and a subdued sensuality.’ I’m loving the denim dress coupled with high collared shirt in the second image, it has just the right amount or ‘prim’ and ‘power’ to it.
Alessia gained her Masters in Fashion Design at Domus Academy and now works in Milan. She has showcased her work at Milan Fashion Week and internationally in Russia and Canada. Xoccato has also gained attention and been promoted by Vogue Italia. She is one talented lady! To check out her entire collection just click here.
I was recently introduced to Karen Chekerdjian’s Ikebana mirrors and my instant reaction was unabashed lust for one of these beauties. If I owned one of these, I’d surely spend more time looking at the mirror itself rather than my own reflection! This series of three different mirrors is inspired by the principles of Ikebana – the traditional Japanese art of flower arrangement. The designer focuses on three of the seven guiding elements: asymmetry, space and depth. Each design explores these relationships in subtly unique ways. The materials used are warm and rich – brushed copper and brass, several types of wood, marble and, unexpectedly, formica. These materials reoccur in much of her work. Her overall aesthetic somehow brings up images of 80′s luxe corporate office furniture, in the best way possible, and very on trend with developments I am seeing in other areas of the design world.
Karen Chekerdjian, born in Lebanon, graduated from Domus Academy in 1997, where she studied under Massimo Morozzi. After working in Italy for a number of years she returned to her homeland and started a furniture, product and spacial design studio in Beirut. She is a trailblazer in her field in Beirut, where the design industry is very limited. Luckily, the lack of availability of industrial production methods proved to be a blessing in disguise. All the objects are made in collaboration with local artisans, often using and further developing ancient craft techniques. Local craft is so important in keeping cultural traditions alive, and it is beautiful to see this kind of collaboration taking place – and with such successful results! The studio produces a wide range of things, including jewellery, brass dining-ware, glassware and even olive oil! See it all here.
Isn’t colour great? It’s ability to change mood and create a tone is really quite an amazing thing. And who could be in a bad mood with MSGM’s S/S collection recently on show at Milan Fashion Week. Full of bright colours, polynesian prints and plastic-y detail, the collection was a bold statement for this young designer.
This was actually the first real Fashion Week runway show for Massimo Giorgetti, the man behind MSGM. Already a favourite amongst the in-the-know fashion crowd, he’s now making a name for himself amongst a wider set. I couldn’t help but think that MSGM seemed like a breath of fresh air on the Milan circuit which is predominantly dominated by the fashion heavy weights of Prada, Gucci, Versace and Armarni. I mean, not only did his models stomp down the runway in Teva-esque sandals (!) after the show the models were back out amongst the crowd allowing for real inspection from those attending. That kind of approach, and Giorgetti’s excellent play and pairing of bold patterns and colours are just the kind of success ticket that this rising star is waving.
Watch this space, Massimo Giorgetti is a Miuccia in the making I reckon. You can watch the full spring/summer runway show here.
Oh, and he’s also a DJ. Can’t imagine Donatella spinning the decks can you? Another reason why MSGM is tops.
Photographs: *Wallpaper & MSGM