BACK by Anne-Sofie Back

Category: Fashion

Back by Swedish designer Ann-Sofie Back is a clothing label that I have only just discovered and I am mighty exited about it. This particular collection (Spring/Summer 2014) has been around for some time now, but I just love it too much not to share it! Back, the designer’s diffusion line, was formed in 2005 and has since become one of the most subversive and exciting labels to come out of Sweden. Taking cue from her atelier mainline collections, Back picks elements to further develop, elaborate or rework into the more fun, ready wear line.

It’s hard to find street-wear done well and at the affordable end of the scale. Back delivers on both accounts. Classic basics—the shirt, the leather jacket, the denim skirt, the relaxed tee, the sweatshirt—are deconstructed here, exaggerated there. Skirts and dresses that look like casually gathered sheets add rebellious air to the collection, while managing to retain the elegance of Grecian drapery. Gathered leather, elements of shiny plastic, wide elastic bands reiterating the brand-name, along with frivolously placed sweeps of tulle, combine a bout of 90s nostalgia with post-internet aesthetics. There is something here for the less adventurous too. Perfect sweats, structured denim, crisp shirts and clean-cut t-shirts complete the collection. These simpler garments complement the statement pieces with understated chic. I am particularly fond of the sweatshirts and skirts that look as though they’ve been folded over and stuck down by strips of tape.

If some stylistic elements seem familiar, maybe it’s because Ann-Sofie Back has also worked for Acne Studios and currently spends half of her time as creative director for Cheap Monday. Basically, Back has the Swedish fashion industry sorted! Check out some shots of Black’s Autumn/Winter 2014 here and you can snap up what’s left of the S/S 2014 collection here.

Anna Tokareva

Photographs: Stockholm Fashion Week

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NABA Nuova Accademia di Belle Arti

Milan, Italy
http://www.naba.it/

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Masters of Art in Fashion and Textile Design

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Domus Academy

Design and Fashion School in Milan, Italy
http://www.domusacademy.com/

Relevant Courses:

Masters in Fashion Design
Masters in Fashion Management
Masters in Fashion Styling and Visual Merchandising

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STAR/DUST—NABA’s Fashion Graduate Show

Category: Fashion

Liquid Mezzanine (Sofia Arango and Alice Maiolini)


Tough Talking (Laura La Marca, Elena Turchi, Camilla Locatelli, Federica Roncan, Giulia Bacco)


Palomar (Benedetta Giorcelli and Giulia Curti)


Wrapped (Elisabetta Menegon and Carlotta Colombo)


Paracelso (Ornella Sofia Raineri and Stefania Laurenziello)

STAR/DUST is the name, and overarching theme, of NABA’s final show for graduates from the Bachelor of Arts in Fashion Design. It’s a huge event, with over 100 students completing their studies. The show took place on 10th July, and I have finally had a good look through the lengthy list of talent on display. Over 90 outfits were exhibited, with over 20 taking to the catwalk. This year a group of students from Tsinghua University, with whom NABA has worked with for years, took part in the show.

Students collaborated on collections in response to the 2014 theme STAR/DUST in different ways—some very literal, others drawing more tenuous connections to the words. Here is a small selection of favourites that have caught my eye.

Liquid Mezzanine’s beautifully tailored pieces are just asking to hop into my wardrobe. The perfect white shirt, the classic black blazer complete with a double collar, but disrupted by ruptures at the seams in the back and around the elbows. The collection oozes confidence and, at the same time, shows it’s vulnerable side, and indeed, it is inspired by our shifting identities, understanding and tastes as we move through life.

Tough Talking has some nice pieces influenced by street-wear and street art. They manage to maintain an elegance, while utilizing sporty materials that allow for speedy, agile movements around the urban playground. Palomar is all about detail, soft felted wool and ethereal swathes of silky organza. I love the woven coat sleeves and the sheer shirt-dress that veils waterfalls of delicate thread behind a loose outer shell. Gorgeous craftsmanship! Wrapped is another collection that demonstrates impeccable attention to detail. Inspired by artist Makoto Kobayashi, it pairs beautifully structured garments in heavy fabrics with looser, more fluid pieces. The contrasts between smooth satin and wool make for a deliciously sensuous collection. Who wouldn’t love to be wrapped up in that cocoon coat?

I also enjoyed Paracelso, a playful collection inspired by the colourful strips of paper used for transmitting prayers and wishes during the Japanese Tanabata festival. The collection sports glitchy prints, colourful weaving with volumous pieces. I think the supporting identity, collateral, photoshoot and video have come together really successfully and you can see it all together here.

You can find more images of these collections, and others, on NABA’s STAR/DUST website.

Anna Tokareva

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NABA Nuova Accademia di Belle Arti

Milan, Italy
http://www.naba.it/

Relevant Courses:

Bachelor of Art in Fashion Design
Masters of Art in Fashion and Textile Design

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‘Mine’ By Tell No One

Category: Animation / 3D / VFX, Fashion, Film / Multimedia

I’m very excited to share this film with you! Directed and produced by Tell No One, a talented duo consisting of Luke White and Remi Weekes, Mine is yet another short that cements the pair even higher in my ‘I want to be like you’ list.

Tell No One produce abstract films that go beyond what we’re used to seeing. Using visual effects and a good dose of trickery, they create work that surprises, is often dark, and is sometimes very, very fun to watch. Mine fits into the latter. Created for Nowness, the motion touch enabled video allows you directly click and shop the items shown in the film. In an interesting twist on the concept of online shopping and the grab mentality of fashion, Tell No One enlisted Italian choreographer Paolo Manigiola to translate the ‘frenzied desire of online gratification’ into a compelling and vibrant routine. The combination of this beautiful choreographed dance piece, with wonderful direction, perfect styling and surprising visual illusions, makes for an incredible work. I’m so intrigued by the method of this film, of how it’s all done. For me it’s just like a great magic trick, but a beautifully art directed one

An aspect that I really appreciate about Tell No One is the approach to experimentation in their work. Their short films, majority of which are labelled as experiments from one through to ten, allow them to investigate a technique thoroughly, which in turn, creates stunning visuals. I’ve been following these guys for a while now and you can really see the production values step up as their experiments go on. I can’t wait to see what they do next.

Since you’ve probably gathered I’m a fan by now, you may expect that I’ve written on Tell No One before. Well, you’d be right. Check out my previous articles on this talented duo here, here and here.

Logan Bradley

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NABA Nuova Accademia di Belle Arti

Milan, Italy
http://www.naba.it/

Relevant Courses:

Masters of Art in Film and New Media

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Media Design School

Premium Design Academy in Auckland, New Zealand
http://www.mediadesignschool.com/

Relevant Courses:

Bachelor of Art and Design (3D Animation and Visual Effects)

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Santa Fe University of Art and Design

Santa Fe, New Mexico
http://www.santafeuniversity.edu/

Relevant Courses:

Bachelor of Arts (BA) in Moving Image Arts (Film/ Video)
Bachelor of Arts (BA) in Contemporary Music

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Paris Mens Fashion Week: Highlights

Category: Fashion

Well. I hate to say it, but I think Milan won this time round. Not that it’s a competition but this season in Paris, the best of the best happened in the first few days, with the remainder of the week feeling rather bland showing ranges that were hard to get excited about. That said, at the time of this writing Lanvin had yet to happen, and like always, I’m sure they’ll be good. But the rest? I don’t know, there seemed to be an absence of the punch that Paris usually brings.

Thank God then for Walter Van Beirendonck who randomly combined fighter pilot uniforms with napoleon gallantry, with oriental prints, with lycra ski gear, with neolithic cave paintings, with sharks! That man never disappoints and I’m glad that once again he didn’t. Yes, many pieces are completely unwearable, but isn’t that what we want to see in Paris? The tame versions can be picked up in any high street store, but on the catwalk, give us a bit of glam or a bit of chaos I say. Van Beirendonck continually pushes aesthetic and gender boundaries with his collections, this one pulling in satellite discs of fabric referencing CCTV, AK-47′s, epaulettes, gold fringing, dazzle camouflage and spliced suits that all were meant to confuse and confound, just as this crazy world that we live in does. The collection could be read as random or as meaningful as we decide it to be and that is what makes it all so good.

On the complete flip side to this was Louis Vuitton. Here the classic tailored outfit reigned as it should from a house with this much heritage. Designer Kim Jones is known for his intrepid journeys and love of travel, this range focused on that aspect but as with WVB, from a  military point of view. I’ve never thought of pairing camels, khaki’s and fluoro’s together, but after viewing this stuff I can’t wait to use that palette somewhere. The crispness of structure in this collection is really something to behold. Even the jumpsuits are extraordinarily cut, giving a flattering silhouette to something that usually could be viewed as one big sack of clothing. And those glasses. Hook me up!

But all in all, Paris you showed too many velcro shoes and birkenstock-esque slip-on’s for my liking.

One more thing to add though, I forgot to look at Dries Van Noten until this article was written. What an idiot! Dries once again nailed it from every direction, and be sure that if I’d remembered to look, he would’ve knocked old Louis from his throne. Click here to look at my third highlight, the ever perfect DVN.

Logan Bradley

Photographs: Style.com

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NABA Nuova Accademia di Belle Arti

Milan, Italy
http://www.naba.it/

Relevant Courses:

Bachelor of Art in Fashion Design
Masters of Art in Fashion and Textile Design

Get in touch now:

 

Domus Academy

Design and Fashion School in Milan, Italy
http://www.domusacademy.com/

Relevant Courses:

Masters in Fashion Design
Masters in Fashion Management
Masters in Fashion Styling and Visual Merchandising

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Milan Fashion Week: Highlights

Category: Fashion

The first of the two main European fashion weeks kicked off this last Saturday in Milan. All the big names show here and this years spring/ summer collections took on a more subdued palette compared their English rivals.

Special note has to go to Calvin Klein who once again showed a perfectly paired back, monochrome collection. It oozed sex appeal with it’s simple, elegant cuts of fleshy garments that were subverted with violent flouro’s and basketball boots. Jil Sander showed another soft collection with yellow stripes and highlights, cropped tops and wedge shoes. Antonio Marras sent an interesting mix of bowling shirts, cropped floral trousers and a vibrant Jamaican palette down the runway, one of the few other than Vivienne Westwood to go bold.

Restraint of palette, cut and aesthetic were seen at Prada whose collection seemed to hark back to a more conservative time. Interestingly, Ms. P sent matching his and hers outfits down the runway, a statement that could be read as a political comment on equality, or maybe less overtly, a reinforcement of the gender neutrality that has always been evident in some way with Prada. Structure and regime were also heralded with contrasting top stitching highlighting the few defining details and making the core of the garment the feature.

One of my highlights this year in Milan though, has to be Bottega Veneta. Designer Tomas Maier’s collection focused on the dancer, taking heavy influence from ballet rehearsal attire and break-dancers from the 90′s. The relaxed, rolled, and slouchy collection of soft fabrications created an aesthetic where movement and ease were at it’s core. Roughed up jumpers with painted and scribbled textures added a needed masculine element, while the long johns and scoop necklines taken from traditional undergarments helped create clothes that look lived in. The more formal wear was a winner for me to, with the sage green being a standout. The other had to be the wide cut black tech shorts… I want a pair.

Next up for menswear, Paris! Exciting times.

Logan Bradley

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Study options

NABA Nuova Accademia di Belle Arti

Milan, Italy
http://www.naba.it/

Relevant Courses:

Bachelor of Art in Fashion Design
Masters of Art in Fashion and Textile Design

Get in touch now:

 

Domus Academy

Design and Fashion School in Milan, Italy
http://www.domusacademy.com/

Relevant Courses:

Masters in Fashion Design
Masters in Fashion Management
Masters in Fashion Styling and Visual Merchandising

Get in touch now: